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Basic Tools For Home Tune Up


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KungFuLarryMay 14, 2006 3:13pm
What are the basic tools you will need to do your own tune up without breaking the bank? I pulled this list from an online resource:

1. Metric wrenches

a. Open end type-sizes 17, 16,15,14,10, 9, 8 mm

b. Allen wrenches-sizes 6, 5, 4 mm

2. Chain rivet tool

3. Small slothead screwdriver

4. Tire levers

5. Pair of standard pliers

6. Tube patch kit

summersMay 14, 2006 5:57pm
1. Spoke-key

2. Pump

3. Clean rags

4. Chain lube (thin or thick, depending on where you live & ride)

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craigdmMay 14, 2006 8:18pm
I dont know if you would really have much of a need for the wrenches, but a good pair of needle nose pliers with the wire cutter in the middle are always usefull. A cassette tool and chain whip are also helpfull. Get the whole set of allen keys, there is only a couple that are not used at all(the 3 & 8 are very commonly used,though not as much). Simple Green is great for cleaning just about everything.

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eyevarietyMay 17, 2006 2:41pm
The cassette is the rear cog set?

I get scared when it comes to taking the hubs apart, the bottom bracket, and the headset.

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ThlayliMay 17, 2006 4:38pm
I got seriously carried away writing this post. It turned into a book. Sorry. :D

The cassette refers to a type of freewheel assembly (the generic term for the rear hub and gears) where the bearings are attached to the hub. Non-cassette freewheels contain the bearings in the gear cluster and are screwed onto the hub. Cassettes just slide on. Most modern bikes use cassettes. A cassette tool is used to turn the lock ring while a chain-whip holds the cassette in place. Cassettes can be disassembled but since they only spin when you aren't pedaling they are usually left alone.

Fortunately, hubs aren't too difficult to clean. A lot of dirt gets on them and if you ride when it's wet the grease can get washed out quickly. Also remember that if you have a roof rack the wind can strip lubrication from your bike. Hubs have lock rings and washers on either side which must be removed. Remove the axle, bearings and races and clean them carefully to make sure there is no grit inside or on the threads. Simple Green or a citrus cleaner is great for this. Repack the bearings tightly with bearing grease and reassemble. I recommend laying parts out in the order they are removed so you don't mix them up. Do not overtighten the inner ring holding the bearings against the race, there should be no slack but finger-tight is enough. A wrench can exert too much force. Make sure you still tighten the skewer tightly, you want the bearings to move smoothly but the wheel to stay on.

Modern bottom brackets are sealed and require no service. Older bottom brackets are moderately difficult to work with although they're more-or-less like hubs. You need a spanner wrench to grab onto the lock rings. Unscrew the left-hand lock ring and remove the plastic adjustable cup. You may need a special tool to remove this but many cups have a standard wrench fitting. If you don't know whether you have caged bearings make sure you have a container to put the bearings in just in case. Loose bearings will go everywhere. Remove the bearing cages (most bikes don't have loose bearings here) and the spindle. Clean all the parts and lightly grease the spindle. Liberally coat the bearing cages with packing grease. Insert the spindle with bearings in place from the left-hand side and reattach the adjustable cup. It is a good idea to slip a plastic sleeve around the assembly to protect it. These usually come with the bracket but can be purchased one-size-fits-all for almost nothing. Tighten the bearing assembly by reattaching the adjustable cup. Make sure the spindle spins without too much resistance and doesn't wiggle. After you put the lock ring back on you should recheck the adjustment. Tightening the lock ring tends to make the adjustable cup slip slightly and it may take a few tries to get it right. The spindle should spin smoothly and have absolutely no lateral movement. If you feel a rattle or "grinding" of the bearings the adjustable cup is too loose or too tight, respectively.

Most headsets now are threadless, this means a star-fangled-nut is used to adjust the steering column while the stem is held on by binder bolts. You just get the tension right by adjusting the nut then tighten the stem snugly. Older headsets, especially those on road bikes, are threaded. With this system an adjustable race is screwed into a threaded steering column to tighten the assembly. Both types of headset require the races to be pressed into the head tube using a machine. This machine is also required to remove the races. The bearings can be removed while the inner races are still attached and repacked and reassembled like any other bearing assembly. Make sure your headset is always fully tightened after reassembly. If you hold the front brake and shift your weight forward and back there should be no movement in the headset. Like the previous assemblies, overtightening can damage the bearings but it is very important that this assembly be rock solid. If there is any movement, loosen the headset and retighten it firmly against the bearings.

Anyway, you're probably thinking "Augh, that's too much information!" I tried to give you all the info you need to feel comfortable servicing those components. This info is mostly from the top of my head so don't sue me if I left out a step somewhere. I learned how to service older bikes from my dad when I was quite young and the rest is self-taught. It's not a bad idea to pick up a simple bicycle manual at any bookstore for reference and to double-check my instructions. Nothing sucks more than taking something apart and not having the information on how to put it back together. Good luck and enjoy knowing you can take your entire bike apart and put it back together. Most people have trouble adjusting the seat. ;)

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eyevarietyMay 18, 2006 2:15pm
Well shit. Thanks Thlayli. That wasn't too much- it was just right.

bildoeFeb 22, 2007 8:47am
thanks Thlayli, good knowledge. Question: my last ride of fall was on a very clayey backroad, and my bike wound up with about 100lbs of clay on it, i could hardly even roll downhill and eventually got to a puddle where i tossed it in to soak off the sticky mud. My schedule being what it was i could not properly clean the bike for about 10 days.

Should i be worried about the mud having sucked the bearings dry? should i do anything special as i get my bike ready for spring riding? the snow is starting to disappear and my bike is waking up...

thanks!


Basic Tools For Home Tune Up

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